I've never needed to lube my guitar nuts. I've always been a Gretsch zero fret guy and I don't understand how people could ever need to lubricate a zero fret guitar. Properly slotted, they should never need any extra graphite, nut sauce or anything else. Never have had a nut binding problem.
I beleive it's called "proper setup"
Re: Oiling a 5120
by Norm » Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:17 pm
...that's how it looks to me...The opinion expressed above is my own and does not necessarily reflect the views of this station. Your mileage may vary...
Audio samples: http://www.youtube.com/user/acountrygent/videos
That should do it.
Audio samples: http://www.youtube.com/user/acountrygent/videos
That should do it.
- Norm
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- Location: redwood city ca
Re: Oiling a 5120
by bill raymond » Sun Sep 02, 2012 1:41 am
I should think that plain old petrolatum (or "petroleum jelly"--a.k.a. "Vaseline") would do the job. It won't run and will lubricatge effectively. You'll want a coating of lubricant on the gears--like grease--I think petrolatum would be preferable to any oil.
- bill raymond
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Re: Oiling a 5120
by Mike Nye » Thu Sep 06, 2012 4:06 am
Plowing through all the yada yada . . .
ANYTIME you have metal on metal, you better damn well have lubrication, but DON'T use light machine oil as it runs out as fast as you apply it.
OPEN TYPE MACHINES i.e. Grover StaTite: Spray 'em with Tri-flow, which is a Teflon spray lubricant that completely dries immediately. It's available at just about any hardware store.
CLOSED/SEALED MACHINES i.e. Grover Imperials/VanGoh: I'd posted to a Bigsby thread about a week ago that I use Silicone Plumber's Grease that's available at Lowes Plumbing Dept.
It's super-thick, so you'll have to disassemble ALL the machines to clean ALL the old grease off with WD-40. Once you get the ring, pinion & housing CLEAN & DRY, slather them with the Silicone Grease & re-assemble the machines, leaving the screws that hold the buttons to the pinion somewhat loose.
Also - DON'T forget to lubricate the capstans & bushings, or you've wasted your time . . .
Once you've done 'em all, adjust the drag by gradually tightening the screw that holds the button to the pinion until you get 'em all to your liking.
This stuff is a ONE-TIME FIX, as I've NEVER had to do one ever again -ever . . .
BE SURE that you DON'T tighten the drag too tight, or you'll wear 'em out for sure -and FAST ! ! !
There's NOTHING like tuning with velvet-smooth tuning machines ! ! !
ANYTIME you have metal on metal, you better damn well have lubrication, but DON'T use light machine oil as it runs out as fast as you apply it.
OPEN TYPE MACHINES i.e. Grover StaTite: Spray 'em with Tri-flow, which is a Teflon spray lubricant that completely dries immediately. It's available at just about any hardware store.
CLOSED/SEALED MACHINES i.e. Grover Imperials/VanGoh: I'd posted to a Bigsby thread about a week ago that I use Silicone Plumber's Grease that's available at Lowes Plumbing Dept.
It's super-thick, so you'll have to disassemble ALL the machines to clean ALL the old grease off with WD-40. Once you get the ring, pinion & housing CLEAN & DRY, slather them with the Silicone Grease & re-assemble the machines, leaving the screws that hold the buttons to the pinion somewhat loose.
Also - DON'T forget to lubricate the capstans & bushings, or you've wasted your time . . .
Once you've done 'em all, adjust the drag by gradually tightening the screw that holds the button to the pinion until you get 'em all to your liking.
This stuff is a ONE-TIME FIX, as I've NEVER had to do one ever again -ever . . .
BE SURE that you DON'T tighten the drag too tight, or you'll wear 'em out for sure -and FAST ! ! !
There's NOTHING like tuning with velvet-smooth tuning machines ! ! !
If BRUTE-FORCE isn't working, you're not using enough ! ! !
- Mike Nye
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- Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2010 2:21 am